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Most boys, and a lot of girls, spend their early adult years serving in the Korean People’s Army, like their parents and grandparents before them.I ask a youngster what’s his favorite part of the game he’s playing and he tells me it’s killing the enemy.They spoke to people from all walks of life, learning more about what makes this country tick, the reason for its deep hatred of the US, and just why people who live under an authoritarian regime claim to adore the Kim family.This is Ripley’s account of their journey into the heart of the hermit Korea reminds most people of missile launches, nuclear warheads, massive military parades — and Kim Jong Un commanding absolute power.

This 160-mile strip separating North Korea from its southern neighbor is deceptively named. Both sides have hordes of soldiers manning this heavily-fortified border, weapons bristling at each other. I tell him his city is known around the world because of its missile launches and ask him if he’s ever heard them.“Yeah, I’ve seen them. Kim, like many others, doesn’t understand why the US feels so threatened by the missile program.“It’s a work my country is doing for our own defense. It makes Wonsan one of the few places in the country without regular blackouts.We’re reminded of this on the way back to Pyongyang, when we stop for dinner at a country teahouse.Within minutes of starting our meal, the lights go out.